July 1st – Midway On the Rideau, Canada

·      Current Location – Westport Ontario, Canada on the Rideau Canal

·      Latitude 44° 40.7’ N Longitude – 76° 23.6’ W 

·      Total Miles – 759

·      Total locks – Hmm?  About 50

Looking back at the previous blog posting to see where this one starts I’m struck by how long ago that seems. After leaving Montreal, we went up the Saint Lawrence Seaway, up the Ottawa River, into the Rideau Canal and South on the Rideau for about 90 miles

Here are the highlights of the last two weeks:

Huge Pike Eh?

Linda Pondering the Entrance to the St. Lamber Lock on the St Lawrence Seaway

June 14th, 2015  - Saint Ann d’Bellevue – We departed Montreal after a week of sight seeing and having people laugh when I said “bonjour”.  We headed up the Saint Lawrence River and into the “Seaway.  While we were waiting to go into the first lock, St Lambert, I was fishing a bit and caught a three pound Northern Pike.  To the locals it was a small one but to me it’s a real memory! Of course going into the HUGE LOCKS on the Saint Lawrence Seaway was pretty amazing too.  We went through St.  Lamberts and another identical lock (St. Catharines) with one other iddy biddy boat like us and no one else.  It was embarrassing to use all that water but I guess otherwise it just goes around the lock and down the river!  A few miles past the locks we took a right turn (North) up the Ottawa River and ended up in the small village of St Ann d’Bellevue where stayed at the top of the lock on “the wall”.  It was really crowded when we arrived so we went out and anchored for a couple of hours until a spot opened up and then came in and had a great dinner in town along the waterfront.  This area is still very French!

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Mo the Firefighter

Lobby at Fairmont Montebello

June 15^th and 16th, 2015  - Montebello (Quebec Province, Canada)– We only went through one lock today but it was a monster.  It is called the “Carillon” lock and it raises you up 65 feet.  It is the second highest lock in North America.  It wasn’t as long as the locks on the St Lawrence but it was very impressive.  We spent the rest of the day running up-river at speeds from 6 mph when around boats, towns and houses and up to 27 mph for a little while when we were all alone.  We filled up with diesel at the tiny town of Lefaire for $3.74 per gallon.  That is CHEAP in this part of Canada. While we were getting fuel a kayak pulled up and we met the paddler.  Mo is a firefighter from Kingston and he was about half way into a trip from Kingston, to Montreal, to Ottawa and back to Kingston.  From our viewpoint he had almost nothing in terms of equipment or supplies.  I let him look at my charts, and gave him a bottle of water and a half can of Pringles. 



We went to a marina that is part of a Fairmont resort so it was quite luxurious.  Built during the depression, it is the biggest log structure in North America.  The three story lobby and huge fireplace reminded us of Old Faithful Lodge.  We had use of their pool and grounds and went to the restaurant.  On the 16^th it really poured for a while during a very impressive thunderstorm.

View from inside the boat during a Gully Wash

Wednesday June 17^th-19th, Ottawa (Ontario Province, Canada)–

Ottawa's Stair Step Locks

Ottawa is fantastic for a boating visit.  The first thing you see when you approach are the famous eight “Stair Step” locks that take you up to the downtown area right in the middle of Canada’s parliament and other national buildings (museum of art etc.)   

Canada's Original Parliament Building

This is the northern end of the Rideau Canal and we were able to stay on the “wall” right at the top.  We did three days of sightseeing including a tour of parliament and lots of walking around the area.  We really lucked out because they were having a Rib Fest there too.  I kid you not.  There was a street blocked off and at night there were many thousands of people chowing down on BBQ from Texas, Louisiana, New Mexico and Alabama.  Linda had to explain the difference between pork ribs and beef ribs to a fellow who really liked the smell of those pork ribs, but his religious training told him to play it safe and buy chicken.

The Rideau goes right through the middle of Ottawa and there are restaurants, biking and walking trails.  There were lots of Canadians enjoying their capital along with us Southern invaders.
 

The Billy Ray on the Wall in Ottawa

June 20^th through the 24th, 2015  Cruising South on the Skinny part of the Rideau Canal (Ontario Province, Canada)–

Park Canada Folks Cranking the Lock Doors Open

The short history of the Rideau is that it was built around 1830 by a British Army Colonel (with a bit of help) to provide a military supply route in case those rotten Americans blocked the Saint Lawrence River and cut Montreal off from the Great Lakes.  Of course it was never used for that but it does provide a nice place to cruise around on our boat.  The northern half feels like a canal and the southern half winds through a bunch of lakes.  There are a total of 45 locks and it is 125 miles long from Ottawa to Kingston on Lake Ontario.

The locks are all original stone and hand operated equipment as built by Col. By’s guys in the 1830s.  They are now operated by Parks Canada for pleasure boaters from June to September. In the winter the canals become a giant skating rink complete with speed skating competitions. It is a fantastic resource for boaters and all of the lock operators are helpful and friendly.  I mean really helpful and really friendly!  We have a seasonal pass so we were able to stay “on the wall” at all of the Parks Canada locks.  Some even have “hydro” for $9.80 and sell ice too.

Lock master's house at Poonamalie lock

During this time period we spent four of the five nights “on the wall”, at some truly tranquil spots.  Ever since we got to Ottawa our travel speed is 6 mph and the canal is generally only 100 feet wide so we did a lot of shore watching.  There are starting to be loons around  and I am catching lots of small bass and pan fish but nothing big enough to eat.  I didn’t get a picture but I got “tailed” three times by a beaver when I got too close to him while fishing in the dingy.  Pretty funny! (not for him I guess).

June 25^th through June 29, 2015 - Mid way down the Rideau Canal –

We broke out of the narrow, northern portion of the Rideau and into the lake portion when we entered Big Rideau Lake.  There are lots of fancy cottages and even a big canoe club where they have Dragon Boats.

·      Nobles Bay off Big Rideau – Anchored in the NW corner and were visited by Bruce the local who gave me fishing advice.  I caught a nice smallmouth bass that we ate.

Monster Smallmouth Bass with Handsome Fisherman

·      Colonel By’s Island – Took a mooring ball at a Parks Canada site.  Fishing and swimming and some walking ashore.  We were glad to be on a mooring when the locals started partying.  Another perfect night

·      Portland at Len’s Cove Marina – We tied up and did some provisioning in this small town.  The first fireworks of the holiday were shot off of Cow island and we had a good view from the boat.  Unfortunately, it was raining a bit and it rained and blew for all the next day.

Canada Day - July 1^st in Westport Ontario

We came into this little town on Tuesday to hang out for Canada Day.  It’s a bit like our 4^th of July in that it celebrates independence from England although they parted ways on a friendly basis.  They are planning a bike parade (wish I had one) and will have fireworks tonight.

Last night we went to dinner with our new boat buddies Ted and Joan.  They have been travelling on their big “Egg Harbor” sport fisherman for many years on the West Coast, the Carribean and now they are doing the Great Loop.  The band was great and the beer and wine flowed.

Selfie of Ted, Joan, Linda and Tod at 10:30 pm in the Pub

Personal thoughts –

• We still miss you all but memory of you is fading.

• Best memory – The perfect night on a mooring at Colonel By’s Island.

• Worst memory – Saying hello to a weimaraner puppy who nipped me and drew blood.  Dang!

From here we head south to Lake Ontario and hope to meet with friends Wayne and Sue in the notable “Thousand Islands”.

June 15th - Montreal Canada

June 15th – In Montreal, Canada

·      Current Location – Montreal Canada

·      Latitude 45°30.4’ N Longitude – 73° 33.1’ W 

·      Total Miles - 524

Hello friends and family.  Since we entered Canada on June 2^nd, I’ve had quite a few highlights but Linda has only had one – going to the F-1 car race.  But I’ll start at the beginning:

Our Next Boat Project

St Paul, Isl de Noix – We departed the United States from Rouses Pointe NY and headed North into Quebec Province.  After clearing customs (easy except their dock was rough and windy) we went to the “Island of Nuts” and into the small town of St. Paul.  We stayed at a marina called Gosellins and were flabbergasted when we walked into their back lot.  It was full of literally hundreds of big Canadian sailboats that they had stored for the winter.  Of course they had a few boats that had been there a few winters too many.

Lock sign on the Chambray Canal

View of the Last Lock on the Chambly

Chambly (Quebec Province, Canada)– We spent most of the day slowly winding through the countryside and going down through nine locks that form the Chambly Canal.  We shared this experience with Mike and Gale Wright from Vancouver Island on their beautiful Mainship 40 that they had recently bought in Maryland to do the Great Loop.  After the last lock in the town of Chambly they continued on and Linda and I stayed on the lock wall.  It was a great day and we enjoyed walking around the town which traces its European History back to the age of discovery in the 1600s.  the British built a stone fort in Chambray which still stands and the church graveyard is full of 1700 and 1800 gravestones.

Anglican Church built in 1820

Beloeil (Quebec Province, Canada)–

The Billy Ray is out on the end

This is a VERY French village.  My goal was (and still is) is to be able to say “bonjour” without getting laughed at.  Pretty much failed my French proficiency at Beloeil.  Even the marina owner didn’t speak English.  Luckily he spoke Spanish and he and I were able to communicate somewhat.  Linda and I went to a very upscale restaurant and I swear that I felt like I was in France.  Of course that is the whole town’s purpose in life.  It has been hard communicating in all of Quebec Province but it makes for a real foreign experience.

Cruising on the Richelieu River

Sorel (Quebec Province, Canada)–

Flags over Sorel

One of the Big Boys on the St. Lawrence

We wound our way through the French countryside ever northward on the Richelieu River until we hit the Saint Lawrence River.  Holy Crap.  All of a sudden there it was with great big freighters traveling upstream.  It was 40 miles further to go on to Montreal so we decided to stay in the town of Sorel near the junction.  We had a walk of about a mile each way into the town so we were limited in what we could carry back to the boat after shopping.  Wine and steaks made the list.  We passed through a park where they had a big flag stand.  They had the French flag flying at the same elevation as the Canadian and Quebec flags.  Sorel has tides of about six inches. 

Isle St Helene off Montreal – Two miles from downtown Montreal

Rain-out on Day One

This stop was all about seeing a Formula 1 race.  We stayed at a marina on the island where the race was being held that provided rides to and from the race each day.  The first day (Friday) was practice.  About a half hour into the “big car” session (they also race a couple of slower car classes to fill the time), the skies opened up and everything and everyone got soaked.  The day was over.

Saturday was a beautiful day and the “big cars” had more practice and qualifying.  This was only an eight hour day at the track.

Ferrari "Owner's" Class

Tod Relaxing at the Race

Sunday was the big day.  We got there at just after 8:00 to stake out a good spot for the actual F-1 race which started at 2:00.  Luckily I took a folding chair to sit in.  Linda didn’t.  So sorry! The actual race was pretty straightforward without any hold ups for car problems.  It took about 85 minutes to get in the 70 laps.  The Mercedes team cars came in #1 and #2 although most of the fans seemed to be for Ferrari.  After the race was over we were able to walk around on the track.  I thought that this was the best part.  Of course the cars were pretty cool too.

A Real Formula One Car (Honda)

The “Old Port” in Montreal –

It’s hard to believe that during the last two weeks we did all the stuff I described above AND visited Montreal City.  It seems like we have had an entire vacation right here in Montreal.  It’s a great walking town from the port but also has a good metro system to visit the far away spots.  We took a bus tour to get a city orientation have been getting to know the city better every day.  Cool things about Montreal include:

·      The Chateau Ramezay – The fanciest house in Canada in the mid 1600s.  Benjamin Franklin spent time on a visit here in the late 1770s trying to no avail to talk Canada into “going with us”.  They had been guaranteed religious and cultural freedom by Britain to keep them happy.

·      Mont Royal – This is a huge park on a hill about 2 miles North of downtown that is pleasant in the summer and used for winter sports (snowshoeing and skiing) in the winter.

·      The whole “Old Town” – There is lots of Montreal history still here that hasn’t been ruined for some reason including old buildings, one of the museums is built on an archeological site. 

The Atwater Market

·      The Cathedral – Built in the early 1800s to replace a church built in the late 1600s, it was made a Basilica by Pope John Paul II in1982.  That is apparently a big deal.  It was made in the days of cheap labor and has never been damaged by war.  It’s a fantastic church for the symbolism and history represented.

·      The “Frenchiness” of everything – This makes it feel like you are on vacation in Europe.  Of course it also makes it hard to communicate if you aren’t a Francophone.

·      The Exchange Rate – This is a big world class city.  It’s expensive but a 20% exchange rate eases the pain.

·      The Lachine Canal  – It cuts through Montreal was a totally smoke choked polluted mess in the 1800s and beyond.  It was key to Montreal

The Lachine Canal with a Cruise Ship in the Harbor

being the most industrialized city in North America at on point.  Now it’s a park.

Cruise Ship Passing the Marina on the River -
Is this Your's Susanne?

·      The Waterway - We're on one of the most historic waterways in the world.

·      Little Italy” – fantastic veggie and fruit market.

·      Art Galleries and shopping – Sez Linda.

·      The people – Hey, they’re Canadian

·      We have a thousand other pictures.  It's overwhelming.

But a week in one place is enough and we are anxious to head down the road (OK, the waterway).  We plan to get fuel in the morning and then enter the Saint Lawrence Seaway, go through three or four locks upstream (west) and to the junction with the Ottawa River where we will stay the night at St Ann d’Bellevue on a lock wall.  More about that on July 1^st.

Tod and Linda on the Billy Ray (Tiara 3600 Open)